Authentic Rovaniemi: How to Experience Winter Like a Local

Is Rovaniemi all tourist and nothing real?

You can absolutely find an authentic Rovaniemi experience, and it won't even cost you much. Remember that the city has over 65,000 inhabitants (spread over a wide area) living true Lapland day-to-day life, well outside the tourist bustle. Below are the activities locals love that are completely open to you in wintertime too — and if you're not sure how to dress for any of them, our guide on what to pack for a Rovaniemi winter has you covered.

What is kaamos, and how do locals get through the dark?

Kaamos is the Finnish word for the period in deep winter when the sun doesn't rise at all in Northern Lapland. Rovaniemi doesn't technically get a full-blown kaamos — the sun peeks over the horizon throughout the darkest time, even if only a little. To experience full kaamos you'll have to venture further north, to Kittilä, Sodankylä, or Inari. That said, kaamos in Rovaniemi is still very convincing.

So how do people get through the literally dark times? Kaamos is a state of mind. It actually feels much darker when there's no snow (this is why southern Finland's winter kills me a little — there have been some completely snowless winters), because snow reflects light and makes everything sparkle. Mid-winter is a wonderful time to get cosy and enjoy the Christmas lights and winter activities. Most Finns, especially up north, are loud and proud nature lovers — if you want an authentic feel of Lapland, head for the trees. Here are a few suggestions.

Try ice swimming

You dip into a hole cut in the ice, and yes, it sounds insane. Many Finns swear it's the best way to get your blood running and stay healthy. A hot sauna afterwards makes it more pleasant, though you might find you feel surprisingly warm even without one. (If the cold worries you, how cold Rovaniemi actually gets is far more manageable than the numbers suggest.)

Ice skating and sledging — is it only for kids?

Ice skating and sledging are both very affordable in and around Rovaniemi. Many hotels even lend sledges to their guests for free, and you can rent ice skates right in the middle of the city at Naava Café. These might look like activities for children, but trust me — you'll have far more fun if you join in, and locals do too. Finns are big on ice hockey as well, so if you feel secure on skates, try adding a stick and a puck to your ensemble. In Kotatieva, 110 kilometres from the centre, you can even skate along a track that runs through the forest.

Where can you see a hockey game?

You can catch games at Lappi Areena throughout the winter. Finns are, as mentioned, serious hockey people (not me though, so please don't ask follow-up questions about any teams). Dress up warmly, pick a team to support, and remember to buy a sausage at half-time — it's not a full experience without it.

Connect with the forest

You'll find lovely forest trails both near and far. If you want to venture further out, Vikaköngäs is a very nice, easy trail with paths of different lengths, and you can take a break at one of the laavu (open shelters) along the way. There's firewood ready at the laavu, and chances are a local has already got the fire going — join in; the fireplaces are for everyone. Just remember to carry all your rubbish out with you, as there's no waste collection out there.

You don't need to go that far, though: just 1.6 kilometres from the centre, the year-round walking path on Ounasvaara takes you through beautiful scenery and has a laavu of its own. Stay off any ski tracks — skiers get genuinely upset if their tracks get stomped on. Finns are laid-back in general, but this is where the temper comes out.

Where to try winter sports?

On Ounasvaara you can try all kinds of winter sports too: downhill skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. Locals love their winter activities — bring some hot juice or cocoa in a thermos and enjoy the crisp air.

Is the ice safe?

You can walk on the ice or go ice fishing, but the first rule is to stay safe: not all ice is safe to walk on. Especially near bridges, the river doesn't always freeze fully, and the current underneath is deadly. Follow the locals and stick to the established paths; never go rogue.

Ice fishing is nicest in spring, and you won't see many locals doing it in December. From February, when the sun starts to show itself again, that's the time. You don't need any permits for ice fishing — only a foldable chair of some sort (recommended), good clothing, an ice drill, and a jig. Hot cocoa is strongly recommended here too.

Ready to try it yourself?

These are some of the low-cost activities most Finns genuinely enjoy — which one are you most drawn to? When you want them woven into a realistic day-by-day trip, with warm breaks and mealtimes built in around the short daylight, our free trip planner builds a Rovaniemi itinerary from real, bookable activities.