The Santa Claus Express: Is It Worth It?

The Santa Claus Express from Helsinki or Turku to Rovaniemi is comfortable and a lovely alternative to flying — but the "magical" views advertised on the website are misleading. At night you'll mostly see pitch black outside, and the real charm comes from the sleeping cars, the restaurant car, and a bit of glögi rather than the scenery.

Is the ride actually magical?

Not in the way the marketing suggests. Many people weigh up flying to Rovaniemi versus taking the Santa Claus Express from Helsinki, often because they want the magic to start as early as possible: hot chocolate, auroras drifting past the train window like in the photos, Christmas music.

I'm the Grinch of this scenario, here to tell you that most of what you see from the night train window in winter is… well, not much. It's pitch black outside at night, and the views aren't that special even in daylight. It's forest and fields, and you'll see plenty of that at your destination too. The picture on the VR train company website looks like it was taken from Santa's sleigh, and it is wildly misleading.

Is the ride comfortable?

Yes, it's a comfortable ride, and if you take the night train it's a great way not to lose any of that precious daylight time on your holiday. The sleeping compartments fit two people, but you can book connecting compartments for a bigger family. The beds are about 75 cm wide; I always sleep on the bottom one with our toddler, who doesn't need his own bed. If you travel with children, tell the train company beforehand and they'll provide a safety strap to stop your child rolling off the bed, plus an extra pillow and blanket if you need them.

There's a sink in each compartment. The water isn't drinkable, but a water bottle is provided for each passenger (and if you book a pet-friendly sleeping car, there's also a water bowl and a bottle for your furry friend). The train has two floors: the upper compartments have a private toilet and shower, while on the lower ones you share the bathroom and shower with other passengers. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and usually book the bottom one — it's perfectly fine. Though I'll admit, once we got upgraded to the second floor for no reason I could work out, and yes, a private bathroom is a very nice perk. There isn't much room for luggage, so you may need the separate luggage compartments if you're carrying a lot. A standard travel bag or two fit nicely under the bed.

If you don't have a sleeping compartment and are in the seats through the night, bear in mind that the lights stay on all night, announcements are only silenced in the sleeper cars, and people walk up and down the train all night. Yep, I've done that too, plenty of times. If you want peace and quiet, it's best found in the extra-silent seats upstairs. It's alright, honestly — just remember that in high season the trains are packed and the overhead luggage space is small, so you'll likely need the luggage compartments. There are lockable ones and open ones; bring some coins so you can get a locked one — it'll give you better peace of mind for the trip.

If you're taking the day train, the ride is long, but it's much nicer than a car journey. You can visit the restaurant car and eat there or at your seat: warm meals, drinks, snacks, and a decent breakfast. Travelling with kids, I recommend booking seats in the same area as the playground — it's upstairs, with a little slide, a train to play in, and some books. It's nothing amazing, but kids like it and can stretch their legs. Just know that this car is never, ever quiet.

Does it have any Christmas magic?

Besides the Santa sticker slapped on the side of the train, you won't get much extra Christmas spirit from the ride itself — though at Christmas time you can buy the traditional Finnish mulled wine, glögi, from the restaurant car. It's still a lovely ride as an alternative to flying, and far comfier than a car or a bus. Christmas spirit is also a state of mind: enjoy the glögi in the restaurant, watch Christmas films on your device, and pack your favourite Christmas treats for snacking (to me, snacks are the best part of any train ride). Watch the snow go by and enjoy the adventure.

So, is it worth it?

The station sits right at the edge of the centre, so once you arrive you don't necessarily even need a taxi if your hotel is close — although dragging luggage through the snow can be a real challenge, so I'd still consider one.

Whether you go by train or by plane, don't get tricked by the Santa stamp. Choose your ride based on your own needs and preferences and you'll have a great trip to Lapland either way. And once you're here, our free trip planner can turn your days into a proper itinerary so you don't have to figure it all out on the fly.